Uluru, a weekend in the red centre.

It has been quite a while since I last shared a trip in C'Obs, we settled back in at home after our years in Cambridge and rediscovered that the distances in Australia make everything so much more expensive in time than our gadabouts in Europe.

Ulurcrew (- J and MotherM) made it to the Rock October 2019

When we heard the news that RevD and R were visiting family in NZ and that they were going to duck over to us all for the weekend, we decided to do something special. Visiting the red centre and the giant rock - Uluru – was chosen. Ticking off a bucket list destination together has created a mountain of memories for our family. Some wanted to drive for a real adventure (M and Petal) but as it was in term time, I voted against the extra week needed to do this at a civilised pace (2-3 days each way from Sydney) and luckily those wanting to fly were in the majority. Special thanks to G an M for booking everything and making it happen.

Apparently, the roads are very good and and a healthy vehicle would make it OK. I was talking to another tourist who had flown into Alice Springs and had driven from there (5 hours of stunning desert scenery) in a rental, they were then going to leave the car at the Ayers Rock Airport and fly back to Melbourne. It is good to know that this airport is also called Connellan Airport when you are looking for flights. There are free shuttle buses to the Ayers Rock resort built at the nearest town to the rock – Yulara. We queued for a long time to get our pre-booked and paid for hire car. Nana had to wait for two days before getting her suitcase, it had a holiday of its own, somehow getting loaded into a plane for Cairns instead.

Left: So many river gullies hopeful of rain in the vast plains of outback Australia. Rainbow serpent tracks?
Top Right: Kata-Tjuta from the airport.
Bottom Right: Some are lucky to see this on the approach to Ayers Rock Airport, aisle seaters really aren't.

For a short time in central Australia reckoning (1872-1995), Uluru was called Ayers Rock. Today it officially has a double title - Uluru/Ayers Rock. Explorer William Gosse named it Ayers rock after a South Australian politician whose daughter he had a fancy for. He thought this would impress Sir Henry Ayers and make him keen to bless the match. Poor old Will got back to Adelaide after his long adventure to find that his dreamed of bride had married someone else in the meantime. This is the story we were told at the rock but I can't find any mention of it, he married his second wife, Agnes Hay (W.G. named a mountain in honour of her dad) very soon after returning from Alice springs in 1874. Perhaps the naming of the rock was due to Sir Ayers' senior position in South Australian politics? 

At the lookout 20 kms away from the rock. First drive out - very excited.

The whole area is referred to as Uluru by the Yankunytjatjara and Pitjantjatjara (collectively referred to as the Anangu people) not just the monolith at the centre. Although there are many meaning names for the sacred sites on and around the rock, the name Uluru is just a place name. I had read that it meant crying or shadows but there seems to be a mix up with some of the small sites around the rock with ul sounds that mean shadows and the town name, Yulara which some have said means wailing. An anthropologist I was reading, Amanda Markham, said that Uluru definitely doesn’t mean giant pebble, earth mother or island mountain which are common myths. Kata-Tjuta (for a while called Mt Olga or The Olgas) means many heads. The geology of these two sites is amazing, read the basics here:   https://www.ayersrockresort.com.au/uluru-and-kata-tjuta/natural-environment/geology

Taking Australian geology souvenirs from a National park attracts an $8500 fine. My family have long been pickerupperers of pebbles, driftwood and shells but this information was new to me. We were also told a story by one of the guides that taking a bit of Uluru incited the fury of the ancestors and that bad luck would follow that person until it was returned to its people. Some have had such long series of bad luck events after taking a stone from the rock that they return it in person or in the post. Australian customs intercept and clean any natural materials entering the country (at the sender’s expense) and have dealt with rocks over 32Kg being returned to Uluru. Of course laughing in the face of such superstition, G thought to slip a pebble into one of the hired Kias!

This doesn't look like the tribe's natural environment. Great selfie stick implementation.

Uluru has been an object to conquer and an amazing viewing platform for the area so has been climbed as long as tourists have been able to get out there. In 1964 poles and chains were pierced into the most climbable slope to give stability after a few deaths due to slippage and heart failure. There is a men’s initiation site for the traditional owners at the top and although they signed a 99yr lease to the Federal government in 1985, they have always asked the uninitiated not to climb the rock. The Uluru Kata-Tjuta National Park management board voted unanimously to close the climb over a year ago but chose to respect the expectations of modern tourism and allowed a year long adjustment period. As the ease of touring the red centre improved the amount of people climbing Uluru increased so much that the chain line was lengthened in 1976. Unfortunately, there were no bathroom facilities built at the top and some felt the need to duck into crevasses – or not, to relieve themselves. All around Uluru are dark marks made by the water ways when it rains. Human waste is full of microbes that are washed down and poison the precious waterholes. These scientific observations also formed a large part of the argument for stopping the climb on October 26, 2019. The chains, poles and the octagonal cairn on top are being dismantled and should all be removed within the next year. A few in our group were keen to climb in one of the last weekends of it being open but were frustrated by the threat of thunderstorms, high temperatures, wind and rangers that supported the claims of the Anangu. However their perseverance paid off and they got to climb.

Left: On it, not steep enough to need the chains yet!     Right: In it. So many caves and over hangs have indigenous art.
Left: Caring daughter returning the pilfered pebble to ensure G didn't attract the fury of the ancestors.

Even without this activity there are many reasons why a trip out to Uluru is an amazing experience. The enormity of the desert with the silhouettes of Uluru and Kata-Tjuta is a sight that is a privilege to see. The light changes over the surface of Uluru during the day and this movement makes it easy to imagine that the rock is just resting and may animate itself at any moment.

Sunset with a storm on the horizon killing the colours.  Sunrise next day - this adventuring requires serious time commitment

There are walking tours, well signed cultural investigations and the one we enjoyed most – Segwaying around the base. We booked sunrise at the rock with Uluru Segway tours. They provided breakfast, but even at this early hour the flies were out and the trick of getting a bite of croissant or muffin under your netting veil (available to buy at many stores at the resort) without extra protein proved challenging. We were taken on a walk to the biggest water hole at the rock which would be amazing after a rain with a many layered waterfall. 

Left: Dry water fall and water hole                       Top Right: Zapped law breakers  Bottom Right: sunrise sky 1/2 hr earlier.

Then after a practice run on the machines we whirred off around the well-worn path at the base of the rock. The guide stopped us at certain points to tell the stories she had been initiated into by the indigenous population. When there was obviously more beyond our level of initiation, she would say that it wasn’t her story to tell. This became a bit of a catch cry when asked questions within the Ulucrew (yes we enjoy corny labels) for the rest of the trip; a good way to not have to admit that you went and had a nap instead of attending that interesting talk on indigenous hunting methods. Only one unintentional dismount occurred (best not to reverse into the wheel of another Segway) and no one was hurt.

Flies for breakfast lunch and tea

Getting the hang of the intuitive Segway motion - had to pass a driving test first

First stop and tell - everyone still on board - frog mouth behind us

Feeling confident - leader a bit nervous - goanna a bit hungry.
I think we really annoyed a couple of groups of walkers - we'd whiz past, whirring along then stop for a morsel of story allowed to be shared with the uninitiated - they'd tromp past us then we'd charge up and whirr off again passing them with enough silly banter and issued dares to wreck the atmosphere of the place.

Really good now - Segway selfies

To get into the National park each person must purchase a park pass, they are checked upon entry every repeat visit. Adults are considered 16yrs plus and we paid $25 each for a dated three-day pass. Tourists must have their passes on them and checked by tour operators before getting on the coach for any activity within the park. The tour shop in the resort is able to sell these or you can buy them online and keep a digital copy to show. If like us, you prefer to hire a car and get yourself to Kata-Tjuta or any of the closer attractions in the park make sure you have the passes before leaving the resort and remember to leave the park before the gates are locked just before dark – ie watch the sunset play on the rocks then drive to the exit with intent! There is an information centre in the park close to Uluru and shops selling locally produced art and another with a café.

Left: A study of a natural formation                        Top: Art laid out for sale          Bottom: Taking shelter in the midday sun

One of the artists with the piece RevD and R bought

The art of the region was a highlight for me. A few of the local indigenous people come and sit around the parks of the resort and paint their canvases telling stories from the rock traditions and of the resources provided by the land. I bought a medicine tree canvas and Petal chose one telling the story of the python who sought justice for the illegal death of her nephew. Moral and hunting laws were broken. RevD  and R bought one to take back to the UK with them too. The Wintjiti Arts and Museum gallery at the resort had some fine and pricey pieces by indigenous artists with international reputations.

Nellie's Bush Medicine tree. She signed the back of the canvas for me in a sharpie with no surname.
More info on the style here: https://www.kateowengallery.com/page/Bush-Medicine-Leaf-Paintings.aspx

I have always admired these feathery paintings. I was given permission to sit and watch a couple of painters in the shade at the edge of a park at the resort. They painted in their backgrounds then threw them out into the sun on the grass to dry. Nellie paints there everyday and began this painting as I watched. Although they aren't the colours I would normally choose I wasn't going to leave something I'd watched come into being because of that. I read in the book 'Song Spirals' (An insight into the Indigenous view by the Bry'wu group of women through historian Clare Wright.) according to this narrative the European way of asking questions to seem interested and polite smacks of disrespect in Indigenous ways where polite watching and waiting is the go. Time - you give the most precious commodity. However, I did risk a few questions and Nellie explained to me that this design represents the medicine tree that it is used to soothe coughs and colds and to prevent illnesses. The way she loaded her brushes and faultlessly painted out the branched leaves was poetry in motion. 

This photo by Babak Tafreshi of the Milkyway
over the rock shows what we missed.

A young, talented artist was painting one day in the Wintjiti gallery as well. Some of us were keen to participate in the Marku Arts Dot painting workshop, knowledge of the symbols and stories are shared by indigenous artists and then you have the opportunity to create a painting of your own. Times didn’t align so this $72 opportunity wasn’t booked. The Wintjiti gallery was also the site of a bush tucker lecture that was free to guests. There were other free educational activities taken by local indigenous people, times and venues all supplied at check in. I was really looking forward to big night skies and seeing the milky way without the glare of Sydney but cloudy skies prevented this every night. The clouds kept the temperatures down so I can’t complain. There are a variety of astronomy activities to do with local astronomers when the sky is right. 
Image left for sale at https://fineartamerica.com/featured/1-milky-way-over-uluru-babak-tafreshi.html

Waiting to board the Field of Lights tour. Look at all those white shoes! Red dust anyone?

G booked us all onto the Field of Light Star Pass tour. Up on a dune we watched as the sun went down, the changing colours of Uluru and 50 000 mushroom-like glass spheres lit with colour changing LEDs. As the light left we were served canapes and drinks. Looking down into the light with the black silhouette of Uluru behind was impressive but nothing compared to walking amongst them. Bruce Munro conceived the idea camping at Uluru in 1992, “I saw in my mind a landscape of illuminated stems that quietly wait until darkness falls then under a blazing blanket of southern stars, to bloom with gentle rhythms of light.” This UK artist created the prototypes in his tiny London backyard, thrilling his neighbours, and has built similar installations around the world. The Field of Lights will be in place at Uluru until the end of 2020.

Getting darker at the lights thanks to RevD's great new phone and its camera. The others are all lost out in the LED scifi world of tentacles and LEDs.

Top: 5 star breakfast.  Free water refills at the camels, 
World cup rugby at the pioneer bar,

Kulata Academy Cafe for a great iced coffee, 
IGA for everything and 
Geckos for garlic pizza and avocado loaded fries 
- a bit of crocodile from the north too if that takes your fancy.

Willow was keen to get a bit of sun beside a pool and although there was a pool at The Lost Camel, where we were staying, it only had decking around it so she talked Petal and B into walking across to Sails in the Desert; this five star hotel has a pool with grass around and an incredible buffet breakfast. There were dishes to please every nationality visiting the National Park, dumplings, pancakes, muesli, cheeses, pastries, fruit platters, cooked in front of you egg dishes and all the trimmings for a traditional English breakfast. Arguments ensued as to which was better the hash browns or the pancakes. We expected the food in this very isolated location to be expensive, and it was. The local IGA had an excellent selection of take away salads, sandwiches, wraps and other picnic style goodies, as long as you get in before they’re cleaned out! All the cafes and restaurants are owned and run by an indigenous conglomerate and the quality of the food and service was commendable.

A camel train through the sand dunes of Uluru

Camels were introduced by the European explorers and Australia now has the only population of wild dromedaries (one humped camels) in the world. Their wide soft hooves don’t damage the flora and they have become a welcome source of protein in the outback. There are around 10 million feral camels in Australia and the population is expected to double every 8 or so years, they are even being exported back to the Middle East. Petal was very keen to ride one of these amazing beasts. The camel tour at Uluru Camel Farm was a gentle roll through the red sand in sight of the rock. 

Uluru Camel tours - mounted and rolling

The big challenge was getting on and off, back legs straightened first as the camel rose making it feel as if you were going to be tipped off the front. This was especially thrilling for the person seated in front. The tour guides we had were informative about the native flora and fauna and obviously had positive relationships with their beasts. Each camel has a name and their different temperaments and sizes are matched with the tourists lining up for mounting. Every time we stopped for a chat the camel behind me nosed his head under my arm demanding a scratch; there was no way I could offer the same service to the one I was riding. The sport of Sultans (camel racing) is taken seriously and many cups and ribbons were displayed from the various competitions. The Uluru Camel Cup is raced in the last weekend of May.

Each camel had its own personality and name. The handlers knew them all well and told us interesting tales.
They got very huffy about getting up and down.

This is the camel that demanded a head scratch every time we stopped.
Willow bought new shoes so she didn't go home with red runners.

What a privilege it was to visit what has been dubbed the spiritual heartland of Australia. The stunted trees and red red dirt made the area feel otherworldly and the taste of the air was surprisingly salty for a place so far from the sea; perhaps this was just the occasional fly.

We flew through Melbourne to Sydney - for some reason this was cheaper, then of course we had three delays so didn't make it home until after 9pm. At least we had lots of stories to laugh about.

RevD and R were soon reunited with their Kiwi family before returning to life in the UK without a hitch. The rest of the family had to call G out of the Platinum lounge, as he waited for another flight to somewhere, to attend a flat battery in the Park’n’fly garage. Did that Uluru stone get kept after all? Well that just isn’t my story to tell.