Friday 31 January 2014

In Celebration of Swans

The cold grey sky darkens the water and the golden stone of Cambridge.
Winter is digging in  - determined to see the most of itself fulfilled, even though the shortest day is well past. The locals exclaim, with poorly concealed relish, that the worst is yet to come. The sodden south counties are bracing for another cascade because of un-dredged rivers protected by the greens.

With this second half of the season comes a melancholy of holidays over, exam weeks and routines.

Yet out on the bleak, black river sail the swans. Night and day they hold a vigil on the river knowing spring will come.

Heads held high they demurely lift their wings as if to say 'Cold? I glow and welcome the crisp zephyrs'.

Rhythmic bursts of their enormous black feet under the surface get them to shore before the gulls and mallards even notice the dog walker on the bank. Above so serene, below their determined beating makes a little ripple behind, but doesn't flutter a feather.  Their necks never lean forward in an unseemly display of eagerness.  As they sidle up they look at you from one eye, gently swirl in the current and inspect their prospects with the other. There is no clucking or whistling to clutter the air from these mute swans; the ultimate in fowl cool.

They remember the poor little foxie in his little jumper and despise his dependence and weakness against the elements. They hiss a warning as he strains against his harness to snatch at their long necks; growling and panting deep in his chest.
Willow holding Charlie from his instincts
This indignity, ignored, is silenced so they nod their condescension and invite the bread and lettuce to be tossed into the water. The young ones arrive, still wearing traces of their mocha façade, to dash and dive and win the meal. Beaks clash and the elders push them away with a side swirl and look up as if daring the observer to smile at their prodigy's foolish, duck like zeal.

When all is done they let the current carry them away and partners waltz until their necks entwine, confirming their bonds before another season arrives.

Thunder beats as a lamentation of swans from down the river arrive- too late for dinner and unwelcome by the previous guests.  Backpedaling, the courting couples raise up out of the water, beating their wings in a show of force to protect their patch on the Cam. The visitors glance to see no food in the offering and barely touch down before they lift their wings and run down the river, their feet slapping the surface at a volume that would challenge any orchestra's cymbalist. The gulls scatter, those caught in their turbulence spiral out of control and crash into the river. As the swans hit their 30th bound, they lift up and disappear around the bend. Five brilliantly white swans, a meter from the dark river covering the width - tip to tip.
The last few months under their parent's wings.  Little difference between the sexes, Cob and Pen

We turn to leave and are faced with three adult swans blocking our path, preening and digging for roots on the grass. The Foxie plants his feet squarely before me and barks a howl of warning. Two, languidly turn their heads and slide back into the river as the third accepts the challenge.  He raises to his tippy webs and stretches out his wings in full which covers the the wide path and more.

Foxie lifts his head and leans against the lead. Imagining all the toys he has shaken to pieces, he takes a step forward to the glory of shaking that loong neck until those haughty eyes bulge and fly off on their own accord. The swan rears up until I am eye to eye with Charlie's dragon. I laugh, the pup is distracted, hurt that his valiant protection is not required. The swan wags his tail and retreats, slowly curling back down to size as if he just had a few cricks to work out. He turns his back to show he feels no threat and slides into the water.
The Threatened Swan, Jan Asselijin, c. 1650 Hung in Rijks Museum - Amsterdam
See it big at https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/SK-A-4 
We are so thankful that these beautiful beasts - for the word bird seems somehow to small - choose to live so close to us and stay faithful through the dark days, braving out the frost and storms. Every venture from home is made joyful and lent elegance by their presence.

The Swan by Mary Oliver (USA 1935 -)  American swans are not mute - see line 7, the English are.
No zoom needed!
Did you too see it, drifting, all night, on the black river?
Did you see it in the morning, rising into the silvery air -
An armful of white blossoms,
A perfect commotion of silk and linen as it leaned
into the bondage of its wings; a snowbank, a bank of lilies,
Biting the air with its black beak?
Did you hear it, fluting and whistling
A shrill dark music - like the rain pelting the trees - like a waterfall
Knifing down the black ledges?
And did you see it, finally, just under the clouds -
A white cross Streaming across the sky, its feet
Like black leaves, its wings Like the stretching light of the river?
And did you feel it, in your heart, how it pertained to everything?
And have you too finally figured out what beauty is for?
And have you changed your life?

Why aren't these beauties on the dinner table at Christmas? Are the English possessed by such a communal appreciation of beauty that there is consensus not to consume this enormous pile of flesh?
Swans in the UK, a very brief History.
(If interested there are myths legends, fairy tales, ballets and operas a plenty that create the legend of the swan to look for.)
  • Henry IV married Mary deBohun who claimed to be a descendant of the Knight of the Swan. (A french knight who rescued a damsel by a boat pulled by swans.) He then included a motif of the swan in his coat of arms.
  • There are many swan 'positions' to describe the shapes of swans in lots of copy cat coats of arms by European nobility in their Medieval Heraldry.
  • Swan was a popular feast dish, often being skinned with feathers still intact and 'redressed after cooking with its cavity filled with other smaller roasted birds. Alcohol soaked rolls of fabric were placed in the beak then lit to appear as a fire breathing dragon when served to the table.  
  • Henry VII decreed the taking of swan eggs a crime earning a year and a day imprisonment and decreed that the position of swanherd could only be appointed by the King.
  • Elizabeth I proclaimed that flying swans must not be taken and awarded the same penalty as for the taking of eggs.
  • When the American turkey was introduced it replaced the swan as the large feasting bird.  Its meat was white, tender and juicy compared to the black, fishy tasting toughness of the swan declared in both Leviticus and Deuteronomy as unclean..
  • In the mid 19th C the punishment for killing a swan was deportation to Australia.
  • Since the 12th C swans have been marked to show who owned them. In later centuries the crown bestowed grants of ownership for those living in the vicinity of favoured courtier's manors. The royal swans remained unmarked.
  • Today all of England's swans beside those close to two other owners still claiming ancient grants, belong to the Crown and are managed by the Queen's Swan Marker.
  • Swans are not hunted, or cooked without direct permission from QEII.
  • The Swan was beheld to represent purity and good because of its bright white raiment. This was so strongly believed that when the black swans were discovered in Australia arguments of logic broke out in scientific journals exposing men's romantic generalisations. (Mill quotes Bacon in  'A system of logic'. Taleb wrote 'The Black Swan' republished in 2005 as an allegory for unpredictable chance.)
'Swan' by Peter Young 
from Jonathan Bart's (Reaktion Books) Animal Series was very helpful for many of the facts and thoughts in the above list.

Finished Reading:

The two friends are represented by the flowers.
Dora for her father's famous poem
Sara for her father's famous addiction
The Poet's Daughters (Dora Wordsworth and Sara Coleridge) by Katie Waldegrave, Hutchinson 2013.
The first third is hard going as the recount and explanations of the tangled lives of the two extended families loosen the story thread too many times but the rest of the book makes the effort well worth your while. A look into the most formidable romantic poets through their daughter's letters and experiences. Female emancipation had just begun to be imagined. If living in our times, the daughters may have outstripped their fathers in academic rigour (Sara) and character observations (Dora). It seems that both may have suffered from eating disorders and addictions to cope with their powerlessness. Both married, Dora had no children and Sara no grandchildren which makes this biography even more precious.
The research  is thorough and makes clear divides between fact and suggestions.

Coleridge "seemed to breath in words" p121

Sara - "on no subject I think is there greater diversity of opinion and practices than that of the conduct of a nursery' she told one friend, 'and on no subject does female vanity shine forth more conspicuously than on that of children and the management of them : every mother thinks her way is the path in to which you should go.'  139-140

Essay to be Intrigued by:  Summary below cut from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_swan_theory
Released on April 17, 2007
by Random House
Black swan events were introduced by Nassim Nicholas Taleb in his 2001 book Fooled By Randomness, which concerned financial events.
His 2007 book The Black Swan extended the metaphor to events outside of financial markets.
Taleb regards almost all major scientific discoveries, historical events, and artistic accomplishments as "black swans"—undirected and unpredicted. He gives the rise of the Internet, the personal computer, World War I, dissolution of the Soviet Union, and the September 2001 attacks as examples of black swan events.
The phrase "black swan" derives from a Latin expression; its oldest known occurrence is the poet Juvenal's characterization of something being "rara avis in terris nigroque simillima cygno" ("a rare bird in the lands: black and very much like a swan"; 6.165). In English, when the phrase was coined, the black swan was presumed not to exist. The importance of the metaphor lies in its analogy to the fragility of any system of thought. A set of conclusions is potentially undone once any of its fundamental postulates is disproved. In this case, the observation of a single black swan would be the undoing of the logic of any system of thought, as well as any reasoning that followed from that underlying logic.
Juvenal's phrase was a common expression in 16th century London as a statement of impossibility. The London expression derives from the Old World presumption that all swans must be white because all historical records of swans reported that they had white feathers. In that context, a black swan was impossible or at least non-existent. After Dutch explorer Willem de Vlamingh discovered black swans in Western Australia in 1697 the term metamorphosed to connote that a perceived impossibility might later be disproven. Taleb notes that in the 19th century John Stuart Mill used the black swan logical fallacy as a new term to identify falsification.
Taleb asserts:
A Black Swan is an event with the following three attributes.
·         First, it is an outlier, as it lies outside the realm of regular expectations, because nothing in the past              can convincingly point to its possibility.
·         Second, it carries an extreme 'impact'.
·         Third, in spite of its outlier status, human nature makes us concoct explanations for its occurrence              after the fact, making it explainable and predictable.
A small number of Black Swans explains almost everything in our world, from the success of ideas and religions, to the dynamics of historical events, to elements of our own personal lives.
The main idea in Taleb's book is not to attempt to predict black swan events, but to build robustness against negative ones that occur and be able to exploit positive ones.
Taleb states that a black swan event depends on the observer. For example, what may be a black swan surprise for a turkey is not a black swan surprise to its butcher; hence the objective should be to "avoid being the turkey" by identifying areas of vulnerability in order to "turn the Black Swans white".
Books by Taleb
Antifragile: Things That Gain from Disorder
Fooled by Randomness
The Black Swan
Dynamic Hedging – Managing vanilla and Exotic options
The Bed of Procrustes: Philosophical and Practical Aphorisms


    Sunday 19 January 2014

    We made it to Madrid

    360 shot off the Roof
    Royal Palace, only used
    for State occasions
    Just in time for Spain's equivalent to Boxing Day Sales. We stayed at Paktrik Metropol http://hotelpraktikmetropol.com which had the taxi driver trying to drive up a pedestrian only mall, in the end he told us to get out and walk while pointing vaguely up the street. We discovered that it was right beside a giant and very fancy MacDonalds and in the heart of uptown shopping.  From the roof terrace, that guests have access to, a glorious view of the Capital city may be had.

    Paktrik Metropol's lounge over looking the busy shopping streets of Madrid
    Very reasonably priced & free access to the coffee machine - hot water for tea bags!

    Felipe II ( King who ordered the development of the Spanish horse in Cordoba) set up his royal court in Madrid on the banks of the river Manzaneres. This is also the King who married Mary and became King of England but stayed in his beloved Spain for the majority of the marriage. On her death he proposed to Elizabeth I to keep the country Catholic even though he thought her illegitimate and spent years attempting to retake the country by setting her cousin Mary Queen of Scots on the throne when he was refused. This came to naught when Wassingham discovered the plot, Mary lost her head. FelipeII built the Armanda to combat the 'English Pirates' who were very successfully sinking or stealing great quantities of gold being shipped back to Spain from the Americas. The courage of the English Navy, her fire boats and a great storm destroyed this enormous fleet and prevented the inquisition from getting to England. The sinking of Felipe's Armada was seen as an intervention from God and Protestants world wide took heart in His protection.
    This Romantic statue of him is in the Sabatini gardens at the royal palace that we didn't get to.

    We sat and watched people for a bit then made a plan of action for our evening and day in this last city of our tour. It was decided that only two of the many worthy cultural sites would be blessed with our presence and the rest of the time would be spent wandering the shops and parks. I was determined to have a genuine paella which Willow informed me I can't because the name infers that it is a shell fish dish - so we were all on the lookout for a corrupted beef or chicken one! A visit to Picasso's Gurnica and Salvador Dali's masterpieces in the Reina Sofia Museum and to the Museum of the America's to see one of only four Mayan Codex in the world were I think democratically decided as the places to visits. M found on google that the art gallery was open until 9pm on Monday nights because it was closed on Tuesdays so we decided to go and leave the Americas for the next morning.
    Oh Woe - Closed for the Jan 6 holiday.  Never fear I have imported some images in place of photos
    During the Spanish civil war Franco invited German and Italian planes to wreck havoc on Gurnica, a Basque town
    fighting against him.  The fascists were only too happy to try out their new war toys and obliterated the town.
    Pablo Picasso, a Spainid living in France at the time painted this canvas over 3x7m in response.
    I so wanted to see the real thing!!!!!!!!!
        Salvador Dali, one of Spain's greatest artists.
    Landscape of Cadaqués 1923   Dali was expelled from San Fernando and accused of starting a student rebellion.
    He was the only artist using cubism in Madrid at the time.  Reina Sofia Museum, Madrid

    Spain 1938 Dali's response to the Civil War, it is said that Picasso spent hours studying it.
    A brilliant example of his double imagery, the woman leaning upon the chest of drawers at her ease, her face formed by hand to hand combat. The lion waiting to consume what is left. He drew a sketch of a woman covered in drawers as a response to Freud's new interpretations of hidden memories in the mind. The raw meat hanging out of this draw referring to the bloodshed pulling his country apart, preventing progress or thought of anything else - closed drawers.
    Museum Boijmaus van Beuningen, Rotterdam, Netherlands
    Persistance of Memory 1931 First use of the melting clock face and his local Spanish coastline.
    Dali experimented with 'soft' and 'hard' concepts. Timing coincided with Einsteins theory of relativity.
    Museum of Modern Art, New York.

    Birth of the New Man. Painted in the U.S. of the U.S. 1943 On the cusp of the atomic age.
    How does mother Europe feel about it?  Salvador Dali Museum in Florida.
     We walked off the disappointment through the Parque de Retiro and were surprised by some interesting sights.
    Okay maybe not quite so interesting.  I was pointing out hollows in the trees for the squirrels signs told us not to feed
    I should have had Chester and Charlie with me!

    Even on a dark and dusky winter evening in Madrid you can see where Dali might have been inspired
    Memorial in the form of a winding track to the 2004 bombings.  One of the trains blew up at the Atocha station we arrived at this afternoon.  It's amazing that anyone ever gets home in a world of so much hate and desire for power.
     BBC news report - http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/shared/spl/hi/guides/457000/457031/html/
    On 11 March 2004, a series of bombs exploded within minutes of each other on four commuter trains in the Spanish capital Madrid. The blasts killed 191 people and wounded 1,841. It was the worst terror attack in Europe since the Lockerbie bombing in 1988. Seven of the key suspects - including the alleged mastermind, Tunisian Serhane ben Abdelmajid Fakhet - died in an explosion at a Madrid flat in April 2004 as police were closing in on them. A policeman also died.  Twenty one people, mostly Moroccans, were convicted of involvement in the attacks. Three of the key defendants received maximum jail sentences.
    Very healthy feral cats getting their daily meat from a couple of local cat ladies

    A fountain with a massive Magnolia bud at the top

    So close to a splash. In front of a gigantic monument to Alfonso XII celebrating peace, progress and freedom.
    He was made King in exile at a young age, was restored to the throne and over his short reign, economic and cultural stability was restored. He died just before his 28th birthday and before the birth of his heir.  His second wife, daughter of the Archduke of Austria, set up a competition for the design of this monument. Jose Grases Riera won it.
     As it got dark we wandered through the garden gates back out to the city and up to the hotel.
    At this stage of the holiday M would send us to stand
    somewhere and smile - we don't even know what the subject
    of this fountain is and didn't have the energy to cross the
    three lane roundabout to find out.
    Pio Baroja, a famous Spanish writer
    greatly admired by Ernest Hemmingway.















    Bear(church) sniffing at the tree(civic possessions)
    Statue in Madrid's central square La Puerta del Sol
    Petal thought this guy looked important so we stood beside him and had our photo taken - I have managed to find out who he is.  As we walked around Madrid we noticed that all the municipal notices had a bear standing at a tree covered in fruit.  This is the coat of arms of the city the tree was added to the design when a dispute between the council and the clergy in the 1200s over land rights in the town was solved by the King giving the ground to the clergy but everything above it to the council.

    Madrid Post Office with apartments, an art gallery and restaurant renting space.
    M spotted a chicken Paella so we came back for tea.

    Rd to Indalo so we would remember
    where to go back for tea!











    For every drink we ordered they gave us a free tapas but these were not little finger food tid-bits - these were whole plates. A giant bagel with cheese, four chicken croquettes, breaded chicken fingers (chooks are more evolved in Spain obviously) mini pizzas.  By the time the two paellas came out I was ready to burst, we were thristy again so had to eat more. That night I had horrible cooking dreams about aggressive tapas jumping all over me that Dali himself would have been proud of.

    Next morning we knocked at the girl's door at 10am and told them to meet us at the cafe across the street for breakfast. I had been down in the lounge jiggling my Liptons and catching up with my journal since 6 writing down all the tapas I had dreamt to exorcise my mind and saw a whole world of sad and lonely people out on the streets.
    The yellow awning in the background belongs to our hotel - 'Café & Té' is a franchise eatery throughout Spain.
    We ordered a traditional Spanish breakfast, hot chocolate and Churros. They were hot, crisp and almost savoury - not like the sugar coated ones at Dream World. Dipped in a gorgeous hot chocolate were yummy - not a slimming breakfast.
    Next we went on a fruitless search for a supermarket so we could pick up a picnic for lunch. We did go through a grocery food hall and all felt a bit bruised by the end of it after seeing so many corpses. They do meat in a big way here.

    We took the Metro from Callao to Moncloa and walked to the Museo de America past the gigantic Arco de La Victoria that celebrates Franco's victory and destruction of the University city. I don't know much about this era but it made me feel quite nauseous thinking that the bully beat the brains again.
    This the only Museum in Spain about the Americas and there is very little about the destruction and cruelty bought to the New World by the European super power of those days. A full sized short-haired Foxie with a saddlebag carrying his own poop bags came up for a pat. 

    The amazing New World

    The Mayan Codex. A detail below


    Feather ornaments from Peru
    Bracelets from the 'natives'

    More gold ornaments
    No wonder el Dorado was envisioned



















    There were so many cuffs, collars and loin cloths made from teeth. Maybe this is where the tooth fairy got her gold.
    We hit the shops as promised in the afternoon but the sales crowds were so busy and the queues so long that we wilted after a couple of hours. I had been struggling to remember to say 'gracias' instead of 'merci' since reaching Spain but now in Madrid the dialect changes to say the hard c with a th. A king at some stage had a lisp and demanded that all his court lisp their s sounds too and it stuck. At least now I didn't feel as if I was making an observation about their stained trousers all the time. In the crowded shops though we could have done with a word or two for excuse me - Willow's class hasn't got up to that yet. Babylon(cool Biblical reference to translator software don't you think) says any of these would have been okay -¡perdón! ¡disculpe! ¡lo siento!  but how to say them?  http://translation.babylon.com/english/to-spanish/ 
    Willow and I headed out again after a restorative back at the hotel lounge. They stayed open until well after 10pm. We gave up around 5 and headed back for showers so we didn't have to get up even earlier the next day. In one shoe shop I found a wallet stuffed into a boot. The store owner said it happened 4-5 times a week.  Thieves take the cash and hide the wallets before police can search them for them.  All the cards were still inside. We left it with him.
    We all agreed a sleep was needed to prepare us for the following day's 4am start. Take away from Macca's and an episode or two of 'Castle' settled us into an early night.  Since already showered, I tucked my nighty into my skirt and nipped downstairs - unfortunately the lovely young Maccas girl who assured me she was learning English  got the order wrong so I had to dash out again - at least my hair was newly blow dried.
    Breakfast gangster style at Terminal 1 Madrid 5am.  All is very quiet.

    Reading Now: The Secret Life of Bees by Sue Monk Kidd 2001 Headline Review
    A story of finding mother love. The horrors of neglect, the prejudice of Southern U.S. in the 50's an angry father and isolation are slowly dissolved by love and hope amid laughter, romance death, hatred and forgiveness. Honey fixes everything -almost.

    "You put his brain in a bird and the bird would fly backward,"p15

    "I'll take nine steps and look: Whatever my eyes light on, that's my sign. When I looked up, I saw a crop duster plunging his little plane over a field of growing things, behind him was a cloud of pesticides parachuting out.  I couldn't decide what part of this scene I represented: the plants about to be rescued from the bugs or the bugs about to be murdered by the spray.  There was an off chance I was really the airplane zipping over the earth creating the rescue and doom everywhere I went." p 75

    "The moon was rising, large and ghostly silver.
    'Look at her good, Lily,' she said, 'cause you're seeing the end of somethin.'
    'I am?'
    'Yes you are, because as long as people have been on this Earth, the moon has been a mystery to us.  Think about it. She is strong enough to pull the oceans and when she dies away she always comes back again. My mama used to tell me Our Lady lived on the moon and that I should dance when her face was bright and hibernate when it was dark.'
    August stared at the sky a long moment and then, turning towards the house, said 'Now it won't ever be the same, not after they've landed up there and walked around on her,  She'll just be one more big science project.' p141






    Saturday 18 January 2014

    The Heart of Moorish Spain - Cordoba


    The river must have flooded recently as the usually lush and green islands between it's banks were stripped bare.
    The bridge is Roman, the Tower and water wheel are Medieval
    Cordoba is built on the banks of the Guadalquivir river that runs all the way to the capital of Andalusia, Cadiz on the Atlantic coast. We arrived from the opposite direction by train.
    Checking out the Andalusia countryside.
    Kitkat from the steward

    Pairs of storks were building nests
    on every pylon we whizzed past
    Before catching a taxi to our hotel we went to the ticket office to buy our tickets to Madrid. M was very keen to travel on the superfast trains that run from Seville to Madrid and past Cordoba. He went to the information desk to find out which train we needed to ask for. The girls and I stared with genuine appreciation for the patience and cooperation of the Spanish woman he was acting to! The arm action and sound effects (to start - elbow in air flat palm down by hip then a fast movement of the palm from hip across chest, above opposite shoulder accompanied by the onomatopoeia of 'Whoosh') were effective and he found out that the fast trains were the Renfe avé. This promised to cover the 358Km from Cordoba to Madrid in 1hr and 45 mins at a maximum speed of 300km/h. At Euro 64,30 each it wasn't a cheap thrill!
    Cordoba's huge train station - that train is the slow one we caught from Algeciras
    Coming up the escalator a lady dropped her bags and only managed to get one off - the lady in front of me kicked her
    wheelie bag and I picked up her handbag so we managed to scramble off without dominoes or injuries.

    Rouins in Cordoba from La Cana d'Espana
    Ask for a copy of their English Menu
    We arrived at Hotel de Los Farloes http://www.hoteldelosfaroles.es/en  which is a stone throw from the Roman ruins (or Rouins as M has begun to call them all since they litter Europe and he felt an abbreviation was necessary). The great thing about finding comfortable family hotels in the thick of things means that you can walk to all the major spots and when the rest of your family are lounging about in their PJs in the morning you can go out and about able to quickly return when they are ready.  To be fair M was usually updating FBk for family to have a nose at what we were doing real time and the teens were growing - ie still sleeping.  Europeans don't seem to go in for early mornings either but behind the Rouins was a breakfast Café that did a proper cup of tea and was considerate enough to have windows facing east and the pillars!

    The concierge at the hotel gave us a map of the old town center with all the cultural and historical sites we hoped to see. He also told us of a reasonably priced restaurant that did excellent local tapas dishes. We took his advice and headed off when we got hungry.
    Coming out of Salinas, http://www.tabernasalinas.com  very full after several large tapas plates. They bought them out one at a time when we thought we'd ordered one each - didn't make that mistake again! Chicken Croquetas(croquettes) - yum, Lamb chops and green peppers, deep fried chorizo - very spicy and fatty plus what is in the photos below 

    Salted Codfish and Orange salad - the House dish
    They ran out of it and patrons were very disappointed
    The fish didn't taste fishy at all  and had quite a creamy
    texture- a strangely pleasing dish that I won't attempt at home

    We ordered four deserts on purpose!
    Oranges with cinnamon sugar
    Rice pudding
    Blueberry Cheesecake
    Ice cream lollies
    After the Halal food of Morocco the heavy emphasis on pork in Spain was a bit of a shock again. Oxtail and Pigs trotters featured on nearly every menu we saw. There was rarely a beef dish beyond the Oxtail so it made us wonder what they do with the rest of the animal?

    After tea we rambled around the town and found that the shops were all open until 9pm, it looked like last minute Christmas shopping.  There were Christmas rides for little ones - although M was tempted by the reindeer train pulling Santa's sleigh. We stopped by the Rouins and found a collection of feral cats settling down for the night.  A guy came along and dropped a whole bag of meat scraps over the side of the glass petition and they had tea.

    We asked the concierge (a student I think, who was valiant with his English) about the Christmas stuff and he explained that it was the Festival of the Light of the Kings (Dia de Los Reyes). It would seem that the commercial western world has the 12 days of Christmas back to front. Instead of counting down to the birth of Christ they count from the birth to when the Magi discover Him.  For the Eastern church the 6th of January is the Epiphanyanniversary of Jesus' baptism as well and far more important than Christmas day.  In Spain The Light of the Kings is celebrated by huge parades on the Eve where floats carrying the Kings throw gifts and sweets out to the crowds. The next morning is present day with families coming together to exchange gifts. The Christmas tree is taken down and any treats that have hung as decorations are eaten. Some still have a neighbourhood bonfires in the evening to burn the trees and celebrate the Light of the Kings.
    Nativity scenes in every shop
    Cordoba streets at 9:30pm Jan 4

    A tailor's shop

    The three Kings are creeping ever closer,
    even through cycle repair stores.































    One of the dozen or so floats parading through Cordoba.  They were joined by bands, mounted police & balloon salesmen. A group of kids in front of us had a huge plastic bag that they would all hold open wide to catch the goodies being thrown from each float.   One little girl on the Pepper pig float had sat herself down and was chomping through the lollies she had been given to throw out.
    We had one day to explore Cordoba and a basic plan of attack. The Concierge had been on the money so far so we took his advice again and headed past everything to the Tower over the Roman bridge for a view of the city.  It was a museum as well - oh lucky day thought the girls who had been warned of the Mezquita stop and were looking forward to the Spanish horse dancing.  Not more fun! http://www.torrecalahorra.com/
    Moorish musical instruments
    Dancing to an audio file of the instruments

    One of a room full of dioramas displaying Cordoba's past. This one is of the philosophers in the Mezquita - notice the three religions present.

    View from the top of the Tower back over the city

    Listening to the philosophers in the dark

    Taking a photo of a model of the Alhambra in Granada - we didn't have time to go there as well.

     Some of the fun the Museum offered.
    In the second room were four figures - they were four of the many big thinkers to have been born and live in Cordoba and to have also influenced their world dramatically.  When Petal pushed the button they lit up one at a time and gave a little speech - quotes from their works.  A very simplified summary follows.
    Zahiri (994-1064 Arabic Ibn Hazm) He liked to compare religions to find the common factor of God running through all. He believed that God was love and so anything that was not love was not of God. He wrote 'The Ring of the Dove' about the art of love. He also believed women could be prophets and world leaders - he became unpopular with some Muslim leaders.
    Averroes(1126-1198 Arabic-Ibn Rushd) Among many other things he spoke about the equality of women as stated in the Quran.
    Maimonides(1135 - 1204 Jewish, also called Rambam - must be his gangster name) argued that as all things were created by God, nothing discovered in the new sciences could disprove Him so let us not be afraid but investigate to clarify our knowledge of the creator. Died in Egypt.
    Alfonso the Wise
    Alfonso X (1221 - 1284, Christian, crowned King of Castile and Leon in 1252) He won back Cadiz for the crown from the Moors yet ran a court in Cordoba where all religions were tolerated and the sharing of philosophy and science was encouraged. Cordoba had a library of over 32,000 volumes which included the Greek writers that were entirely lost to western civilisation after the collapse of the Roman Empire. He composed music and translated Arabic texts into Latin. The Pope was a bit peeved with his acceptance of other faiths and tried to excommunicate and depose him. He encouraged Christians, Jews and Muslims to live together in peace and harmony. After his death this ideal slipped and was completely destroyed after the last Moor stronghold in Granada fell to Isabella and Ferdinand with the Inquisition hard on their heels in 1492.
    Cordoba lived in the light when the rest of Europe was in the dark then as the Renaissance began in Europe Spain fell back into superstition and cruelty.
    A view from the Lion Tower at the palace that Alfonso X began and the XI completed
    Overlooking the fish pond I wonder if this is
    where the cod fish are farmed.
    Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos is Spanish for Palace of the Christian Kings. Its gardens are more impressive than the interiors. All the citrus trees were laden with fruit and a fragrant garden was planted ready for spring. There were about 15 meters of hyacinths planted in one section - that will be a heady experience. Walls were covered in Jasmine and penny royal lined the paths.  We watched as one woman picked an olive off the tree and spat it out in disgust, they taste really bad before they are soaked and rinsed and fermented. I have no idea who figured out that tricky procedure.

    Next we walked down to the Royal Stables where Felipe II demanded that a beautiful dancing Spanish horse be breed to  perfect the dressage skills being developed in Naples.
    In 1567 the project began and now these horses are famous all over the world. Willow was so sad that the show was closed for the Epiphany week.  Have a look at someone else's holiday video to see what we missed.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Zq31anzEPA
    So close - yet so far.




    Cordobians are very proud that several famous matadors have sprung from their city in recent years. We went to a place that had advertised hands on experiences with local artisans but all we found was an empty bar with a sand floor and an interesting display about bull fighting.  Another place closed because of the holidays was the leather workshop - Meryan. Here they demonstrate and sell products of  the 'Guadameci' technique. 'Cordobans' are boxes and chests decorated in this style. Thanks to Arabic tanning skills with sumac(a plant native to Morocco and Spain that produces light coloured and soft leathers) and this technique of applying a thin layer of silver upon the tanned leather to prep for painting and tooling, a Medieval art form and luxury good was born.
    Just as well it wasn't open really - these beautiful blank notebooks would have been hard to resist
    You can order over the web though - so not all is lost, http://www.meryancor.com 

    An old world map tooled in Cordova leather
    Can't you imagine the New World gold stashed away in one of these

    Road to Casa de las Tradiciones. The exhibition was closed but we saw the displays and were invited to take a photo.
    I think Willow got caught 'dancing' again.

    We may not have found the craftsmen but Petal
    was tempted to take the buggy for a run through
    the curly roads.
    M didn't fancy getting dressed up as a Matador
    A brave but cruel entertainment.  The argument is that the
    mighty bull is given a glorious way to die that celebrates
    his strength.  Not my cup of tea.













    Not the KKK!  A cod fish shaped hood
    to hide the faces of the penitent in the processions
    of mournful music in the week before Easter.
    We were ALL very excited to be seeing the Grand Cathedral or Mezquita after 3pm (As it was Sunday it was closed to tourists until after Mass). So we started looking for lunch.
    Proving too tempting for Petal - lunch on the tour

    Orange trees everywhere

















    Christmas flowers everywhere too

    Christmas party on upstairs but the courtyard
    was lovely.
    Carmen's corner was the
    Pequeño restaurante we chose

    A little street around the corner from the Mezquita with many eateries
    Carmen's sign on right in black and white.  I don't know who the girl is
    but the dress and cape are pretty cool. Few cars but many scooters.

    Adding to his ethnic hat collection.  Most of the leather in the store was from Fes - we could smell it!
    Petal left her Christmas Euros back at the hotel so didn't get the black backpack top right.
    Smelling more History and Citrus

    Don Ashby ever patient with Willow behind the lens as I
    line up for tickets to yet another church. 
    Petal has become quite jolly in the face of the inevitable but even she was impressed with the interior of the
    Cathedral behind her.  Queue for tickets right. 
    Pool below the Bell Tower.  Notice the stone irrigation channels built into the courtyard.  They run through each
    row of orange trees, flooding the 2m circle around the base of each one before running down to the next. 
    Inside at last.  
    The Moors built the pillars and arches as a Mosque from 661-750CE. The Romans had built a temple to Janus on the site first then the conquering Visigoth pushed that down and built a church. The early Moors built a small Mosque. Then when the Umayyad prince, kicked out by the Abbasids - about the same time as Idris who founded Fes, took over he made Cordoba his capital and began the huge project above to equal the grandeur of Damascus. After King Ferdiand III retook Cordoba for Christendom the building was rededicated to the Roman Catholic Church. Alphonso X refused to have it torn down and instead had a Christian Nave built inside it. Later centuries saw more Catholic additions until Charles the V( same guy who took Gibraltar finally from the Moors) is said to have uttered on seeing it for the first time 'they have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something you can find in any city.'
    The Mihrab - gilded with a dome of exquisite beauty above.

    The Cathedral inside the Moor's Mosque

    The contrast and blend of the two cultures


    Moor arches beside the Mihrab

    Choir stalls, Pipes at top, staring at the ceiling

    This image is idolatry to the Muslims
    One of the Medieval texts on display














































    Aerial shot of the Mezquita and the Orange Courtyard.  Image from: http://smarthistory.khanacademy.org
    Beautiful detail in he dome above the Mihrab This was gated off so the image is from http://smarthistory.khanacademy.org
    Bell Tower built around the Minaret with bells
    stolen from another Cathedral ringing.
    Beautiful Mosaics on the outside too.





















    Tomato and oil for on toast
    at La Cana d'Espana
    Their toast was fresh baked
    and very serious sizes.
    I should have ordered a
    1/4 slice but the
    oat bread was good.
    Lovely staff.

    Waiting for the girls to come down in the atrium at our hotel - stage for flamenco
    No M wasn't tempted to try it out.

    Cafe at the Train station - action ordering again. Good coffee but no perros(dogs) allowed.
    Waiting for our fast train

    Watch out here it comes
    Reading Now:
    The Mosque of Cordoba told to Children  by Miguel Sanchez (Available in English, Spanish and French) Graficas La Madraza. This publisher also has a similar book about the Alhambra in Granada. 
    The text is brief and a little trite but the cartoons accompanying it are clear and informative.