Muncaster and Ravenglass by the Irish Sea

After a hearty breakfast we jumped in the car and twisted through the Lake District National Park for an hour until reaching the coast and the Irish Sea. The winds that later hit southern England were building and the waves were crashing into the coast. It was cold but dry where we stopped at the Ravenglass and Eskdale Steam Railway.

The 1 black bubble shows where Muncaster Castle is, the railway starts at the river just up from the mouth on the
Irish Sea. We drove down the white rd from Bowness to the A595 and west for an hour, quite a few road wide puddles to ford.  On the way home we travelled the white rd(A593) past Coniston water to Ambleside and down - one car width in places between Torver and Coniston, only one nut in a white fiat thought he'd have a go at squeezing through at the same time.  He must have had hedgerow scratches down the left hand side of his car but spared the Audi.
Beautiful scenery - not a road to be travelled for the first time in the dark!  Thanks Google Maps.
The green bit is the National Park.

Steam Up - a diesel engine runs the line too

 At the rail ticket office at the beginning of the line in Ravenglass, a dog ticket had to be purchased for Charlie, he preferred the trip back when the girls were sitting in the last carriage - the window was low so he could see out.

A Toyland movie? - Is that Noddy or a goblin in 1st class?

There are short walks all around the little narrow guage railway so in summer walkers can get out - walk through the countryside and get on the train at another station. the ticket is for as many trips as you fancy in the one day.

We went straight up to the end - Dalegarth for Boot. All train passengers and hikers in the area  were kept under armed guard at this station on June 2 2010 after a Taxi driver had shot his twin brother and family solicitor then went on a spree killing work collegues and strangers. His taxi was found at Boot and the visiting train passengers not released from the station until his body was found in woods close by. Those passengers had a very scary stopover, we just had morning tea - cream tea that is with onion rings and a chilli mayo dip - it was cold. The kids took their unsalted hot chips with them in the train - service was not quite quick enough for the turn round time.

Please could I have a turn?

The railway used to service mines in the area and has survived thanks to volunteers and now tourism.

The countryside changed from estuary riverside marshes to farmland, through woods (with signs for squirrels but we didn't see a single one) and up to heather covered peaks. The little river alongside the line was running fast and furious with the recent rain but went unheard because of the frequent steam whistling before every station and the general chuffing of the engine and shaking of the carriages.

M spent some time on the way back hanging out the door trying to get a photo of the engine and train as it curved around the wide bends but high stone fences made this impossible and the guard seemed to be rather excited about this daring feat.

Dalegarth for Boot (terrain too steep for the train to get to Boot)

Music and scenery in the caboose

Steam but no engine as the stone wall cuts it from view

A very anxious guard eyeballs the mad photographer
hanging out of the carriage

End view - no squirrels to be seen

Water wheel powers the old Mill - very tidy conservatory
for nosy tourists to spy in as they roll past

Next we travelled back in land to Muncaster Castle.  It has been home to the Pennington family since 1208 (some say since 1068 - with a few name changes via deed poll when the Lord died without heirs and a non Pennington cousin inherited). It is said to be the most haunted house in England with the most documented stories of ghost activity and sightings, it certainly has had its fair share of murders and deaths on the grounds. They do Halloween in a big way with special creepy night tours, face painting and decorations. Tom Fool lived here, he died around 1600 and was known for practical jokes such as pointing travellers towards quicksand rather than the ford. Tom also carried out orders from Lord Frederick Pennington to chop off the head of a carpenter who fell in love with his daughter and was enticing her away from the family fold - the carpenter is now said to haunt the grounds. The family still live on the property but welcome visitors from 12:30-4pm every Sunday to Friday for the privilege.  They have guest accommodation on site which is very popular at this time of the year. Autumn half term seems to be all about Halloween.

Halloween decorations at Muncaster

Views from in front of the library

The best views of the house, across the valley used to be from the kitchens attached to the great hall, these were converted to a library with a round mezzanine floor by the first Baron of Muncaster(awarded the Irish peerage in 1783), he was a friend of Prime minister Pitt and served in parliament as well as being responsible for planting most of the hardwood forests around the 23000 acre estate. An interesting story about Sir John Pennington sheltering King HenryVI in 1464 after losing the battle of Hexham to Yorkist forces when he scuttled away, one of the only members of the quality not to be executed, is part of the family history. When he gathered his strength (this was the guy who had lapses of mental illness and was married to Margaret of Anjou who seemed to be the power behind the Lancastrian cause at the time) he left Muncaster protection and his drinking bowl with a blessing that as long as it remained intact the Pennington family would maintain their seat.  This bowl is on display as the 'Luck of Muncaster'.

Image from http://www.muncaster.co.uk/history-castle

The World Owl Trust is also sponsored on site. As Charlie was walked past the owl cages he seemed unaware and unconcerned about the twists and shuffles in his direction.  Several of the owl species that were looking at him have been known to eat little deer - Charles was a tempting tidbit.

Sparky the Barn owl

After taking Charles back to the safety of the car we went and watched the Owl show which is part of the grounds entry fee. We found out that for the Barn owl to have its legendary soundless flight it has to do without waterproof feathers, no wonder it likes to live in barns. Parents were offered the chance to give their troublesome children to the Giant Eagle Owl for dinner, they were promised the pellet of bones and hair the owl disgorges after digestion as a souvenir.

With eyes closed this owl from
the Americas has really long lashes 

Watch out - flying owls about

Eurasian Eagle Owl - one of the biggest
owl species in the world.

I'm safe - bigger than a mouse

Willow and I thought the cutest of all the owls was the Mottled owl - is stared at us as we approached its cage with its head turned backwards and slowly batted its long eyelashes at us. Nana thought the Aussie owls looked miserable in the 12 degrees (which apparently is 5 degrees warmer than normal - even the extensive plantings of rhododendrons were confused and budding up) and Petal thought the Eagle owl was just like Sharna in bird form.

We caught the pony trap back to the park entrance and headed back to Bowness.  We chose the scenic route and think we may come back to do one or two of the walks in summer.  I am very glad that it was still light as we drove through the very narrow twisting roads across the top of the pass, past Coniston water and back down to Lake Windermere. If we do come back to the Lakes District I'll check out 'The Rum Story, an exhibition full of smugglers and pirates, in Whitehaven but I'm thinking that I may not be able to drag the family to The Cumberland Pencil Museum, home of the world's biggest pencil in Keswick by Derwent(as in the pencil manufacturer) water. If this sounds like your cup of tea check out this site-http://www.pencilmuseum.co.uk/.

Poor horse has lost his head

Fashion in the Lake District this Autumn:

Teal and tan - get pants to match your dog's head!

Camouflage patterns and fur - not much on Charles

Blue and snowflake beanies - Nana got a purple cable knit and a pink and brown fancy with a touch of fur.

The day we left saw us visiting one more lolly shop for supplies for the long trip home - Yes the girls got an ice cream! Nana bought Kendal mint bars and fudge, Petal a bag of rock candy sticks and Willow spent her money on a scarf in a store called Quirky. M and Charles just wanted to get going!

We stopped for lunch at one of the service centers on the M6 and got KFC so we could shred some chook for Charles! Nana and I ordered but things were very busy and very slow. A grumpy old man behind us asked how much we were ordering, I started to explain that there was no gravy so our order had to be changed which was holding things up but he just wanted to have a go so off he went accusing us of being thoughtless and making everybody in the queue have to wait longer because we were being greedy. M spotted a snarl on my face and sent Willow to find out what was going on - she was sent back promptly to the table so she wouldn't hear Nana's no messing about response.  The grumpy old dude got his turn and ordered gravy and mashed potato then stood at the counter abusing two different counter girls for not having it and demanding to speak to the manager. He sat in Nana's line of vision who gave us a running commentary of his slurps and mumbles. Just before we left a lady came up and laughed with us about the grumpy old b..ger getting his comeuppance. I was hoping we wouldn't see him on the road home!

Waiting with cold feet for lolly choosing to be over

Grumpy dude at rear below the brown sign on the ceiling (not in the checked shirt!)
Services bridge over the M6 - Seeing huge trucks charge towards and under you is a little disconcerting.

Thinking about:  All Hallows Eve,
Sometime in history someone decided that there were lots of Saints who didn't have their own party day so a day in May was put aside for them all to be celebrated. Popes Gregory III and IV moved this celebration to Nov 1 to try and twist the Samhain festivals into Christianity. This was a time when the days were getting dark in Autumn and the pagans reasoned that the physical conditions of the world reflected what was going on in the spirit world.

They thought the veil between living and dead thinned through the darker months so to keep the ghouls on their own turf they dressed up as ghosts to scare them away, this was called guising, the root for the modern word disguise. Dark ages logic seems locked in that place between waking and nightmare.

An Irish legend of 'Stingy Jack' tells of a miserly farmer who cheated the devil and was cursed to wander the earth with only a candle inside a hollowed out Turnip for light. Irish immigrants to the States found pumpkins easier to carve and they look a lot prettier too so the Jack'o'lanten was created. The fun of Trick or treat was first recorded as a term in the US in 1927 and may be based on the European tradition of gifting to the poor on All Hollows day.

Probably the scariest thing that ever happened to the Roman Church on October 31 was the year(1517) Martin Luther nailed his disgust of indulgences(the selling of certificates for quick trips to heaven authorised by the Popes to raise cash) and other non biblical practices on the church door (read late medieval noticeboard) at Wittenberg.  His words began " Out of love of the Faith and the desire to bring it to the light..." He then listed 95 'issues' with the Christian church of the day to be discussed under his chairmanship. Many people have been killed and tortured because of the actions on this halloween battle of light and dark.

For the sake of kids and the intoxicating availability of stuff in the stores, we had a box of treats and a glittery battery operated ghostie in our window.  Three groups of disguised kids came and grabbed - so the custom, despite the retailers yearnings, isn't as popular here in Britain as in the US. The kids seemed pretty keen to get their hands on the snack bags of halloween shaped mini digestives and gummy body parts. Even the fruit growers tried to shift more product by selling mandarins and oranges in black and purple boxes with ghouls floating around with skeletons. It occured to me, as one little boy squealed in an ecstasy of greed pulling out handfuls of chocolate ghosts, that the really scary thing about halloween is the celebration of 'I want it' - rather opposite the sacrifice and considered selflessness of most of the Saints celebrated the following day.
Light and Dark - the ever present battle.

Bowness and Beatrice Potter

Lake Windermere is the largest natural lake in England but only a mile at it's widest and just over 11 miles long
The whole lake is within the Lakes District National Park - it is a long skinny lake(ribbon is the correct geographical term)
but has quite a few islands in it.  The biggest of these is Belle Island and is privately owned. The previous owner built a
round house on it that the locals of Bowness across the water from it objected to so he planted lots of trees to hide it
from them. The herons that nest in the trees of the islands have very acidic poo and are slowly killing them.

Back of the B&B in Bowness on Lake Windemere

Front of the B&B - Doggy friendly,
Great Vegetarian cooked breakfast

Michael and Michael, owners of the B&B told us that the Lake Districts have over 9 million visitors a year and that they rarely have vacancies. The shops in Bowness were certainly set up to take advantage of the tourist trade. Just as many camping gear shops as there were sweet shops.  Lots of art galleries and trinket shops. One I really liked was called Love the Lakes, they stocked local artist's cards, jewelry and prints. Another item was refills for reed diffuser bottles, a sensible idea that I have been wishing my favourite brand -Ecoya would do to save waste and cash! They had a fig and pear one that I will order online(within UK only) one day to try.

The Beatrix Potter Attraction was one reason why I chose to get our accommodation in Bowness. Apart from her fame as the most published English author she also bought up local farms to protect them from development then gifted all her land to the National Trust to be protected for public enjoyment and conservation.

The first farm bought by Ms Potter with the royalties from her 'little books'

The post code I had recorded for this place took us up the road to Windermere village, it was very very busy but M managed to find a park. A very rude and pudgy young chap in a black hatch thought that he should have had the park and threw the middle finger at us as he impatiently passed when M had finished maneuvering into place.  Nana was very offended and considered chasing him down for an apology, the next three men walking towards the pay and display machine were given close scrutiny but none turned out to be the lout in question.  Lucky him! Unfortunately M discovered, after a bit of a wander around Windermere that the B.P.A was back down the road from our B&B. We had a nosy in a couple more chocolate shops and another art gallery before we passed the library that was advertising a display of Auschwitz survivors that had been resettled in the town after WWII. M gave someone else our parking ticket and we went back down to Bowness.

Even though he had had a big walk, Charlie didn't want to stay in the car this time and stood on the driver's seat while we were in the B.P.A.  The Pay and Display machine was right beside the car so he probably had a merry time barking his head off at anyone approaching - at least no one would try to nick him in that mood. Unfortunately for his tough guy image he still had his fleecy blanket over his back the whole time.

Nana and Peter Rabbit

Petal colours in a drawing on the touch screen

Willow with Mrs Helis(nee Potter)

This story was the first book I ever bought with
my own money - won in a colouring competition.

Instructions from mum before off to play

Mr McGregor loves disobedient rabbits for tea

Instructions ignored

We watched a little film sketching out the details of Ms Potter's life then were allowed through to a giant diorama of Peter Rabbit and his friends. Life sized displays of water coloured scenes from the little books were presented along winding paths until arriving at a room with interactive displays about the author and her creations. The expected store was full of little creatures wanting to be taken home.

The Blue cruise - Charlie was a bit green

After rescuing Charlie and the folks wanting to buy their parking tickets, we walked down to the lake and caught the Blue cruise ferry which took us past some beautiful properties on the shore of the lake. The rain came so we were happy to stay indoors with a drink and snacks as we listened to the pilot's narration.  One large hotel had been built as a private residence and the owner had used it to train black slaves how to work as household servants before selling them. A folly built on this property at the edge of the lake had arches 10 feet above the water level that in a recent flood had been covered - that is a lot of rain and runoff.

Storrs Hotel - built by Joseph Gandy for John Bolton - Slave Trader

As we got off the cruise the rain hammered down, the biggest optimist, M - the only one without a raincoat on, had to borrow my gum flower umbrella. A work colleague had told him that it just wasn't the done thing to walk around the Lake Districts with and umbrella - water proof pants yes, umbrellas no.

The family were much happier
at a place with WIFI.

Nana was tired so had a night in with Charlie while we went to the local Cinema - Willow choose 'Summer on Leith'.  Unless you are a huge fan of the Proclaimers, I suggest you give it a miss.  The best thing about it was the tiny theater we watched it in and the scenery of Edinburgh.
We got absolutely soaked walking to tea but soon warmed up with plates full of deep fried Camembert with cranberry sauce and breaded mushrooms with a chilli dipping mayo and a brown butter sauce. Petal's pizza passed the test too - great Italian opposite the theater!

Reading Now: Didn't find a book shop although Nana found a Newsagent to buy the Christening Mags to take home. Had to watch a doco on saving Britain's narrow gauge railways instead - oh joy.

A Day in Old York

Real Gas light in Minster Square
2nd biggest European Gothic Cathedral
in the 2nd oldest City in England

Willow swapped her 'Festival of Ideas' responsibilities with a friend at school so we were able to leave Cambridge after a hot-dog afternoon tea and made it up to York by 9:30pm.  Another friend generously shared a flu with her, picked up in Japan while on a language excursion. We were all a bit nervous about being shut up in the germ incubator(A6 Audi - Le Mans) with Willow. We were right to be nervous as I am now sitting here with one nostril running like a tap (try not to imagine the twisted tissue solution), Nana is on the couch Sudafeded up watching a movie as she awaits the wash cycle to finish, Petal has lost her voice and M is also feeling poorly. Charlie seems fine, Nana probably protected him as he snuggled on her knee the whole way. Lucky it didn't hit earlier.

Nesting on Nana

The New Inn Motel in Huby(long u) just north of York is run by a young family and runs much like a NZ motel but with breakfast in a dinning room instead of kitchen facilities in the room.  It is across the road from a chippy shop that provided the best hot chips we'e had in the UK so far. Taking Charlie for his Wee walks late night and early morning were a little tricky as big green tractors pulling long, high trailers behind them. whizzed past the local village shop(front room of someone's house) and the multiple pubs.  Nana walked Charlie a long way to try and find the farm they were all rushing off too but didn't make it out of the semi detached houses full of young families.

Our first stop in York was the Micklegate Bar. This is one of the four old gates in the walls of York. A fifth was built by the Victorians. 3.4km of the Medieval walls remain and take about 2hrs to walk around.  There was a sign about no dogs on the walls but luckily I didn't see it until we came down. It was drizzling and the side of my boot caught an edge of the slate which lurched me into a spectacular slip. Nana grabbed my hood and so I fell to the right- away from embarrassing the family by rolling off the wall and down the grassy hill.  The kids were horrified that Charlie would have been flung down and M suggested that this was a good ploy for a soft landing to many shrieks of disgust amplified by Nana.

Outside the Micklegate Bar (Tower)
The rampart behind and above Petal
is far left in the opposite photo.

Below the wall beside the Tower

Just before the slip!

The Micklegate Bar now houses a display of Knight's armour at the top and daily life at various stages of its history in the middle and a shop on the bottom.  It was filled with posters about the War of the Roses. After many years of fighting, Henry TudorVII beat the Yorkist King(red rose) - Richard III(he claimed the throne after imprisoning his nephews in the tower, the true heirs - maybe even had them murdered). Henry claimed the throne for the Lancasters (white rose) then he married Elizabeth of York to join the two houses but this didn't stop the squabbling that continued even into Henry VIII's reign. Any York threat was beheaded or sent to work in the kitchens (don't believe me - look up Lambert Simnel). Of course this was after a couple of generations of fighting for the throne between the Lancasters and the Yorks.  All the Kings seemed fairly weak because many of the noble families around England were having their own little feuds - no one seemed strong enough to end these and shore up their claim to the throne. It didn't help that Kings died without heirs, had periods of madness or Queens that put their claims before the welfare of people and economy they ruled.

Gangster Knight

Vanquished Foes were spiked on the gates

Looking into York from the Tower

Dress ups from many eras

Protection from the Gangster Knight

Princesses of York?

We also visited the Jorvick centre that is built on the viking dig under the Coppergate shopping Mall. The Vikings attacked the Saxons who fought back and were eventually converted to Christianity by St Augustus and then they were invaded by the Normans.  Layers of this history are marked up the wall. Under the streets of York is a chair lift type ride that travels through a model Viking village followed by displays of items found in the dig. The Amber jewellery was impressive but the name of the street - Coppergate - is the phonic representation and distortion over time, of the viking word for cup maker.  By 1066 York (still called the Viking Jorvick at the time) was the 2nd largest largest market town and centre for industry in England.

Leaving the Jorvick attraction at street level

In the Chair lift ride - 3 up front, 3 behind
apparently there was a sign saying no photos
 - didn't see that either

A trader with amber to sell at Scarborough

The green shirt guy has a face constructed by a forensic
artist from a skull dug up from the site.

Long backyards were their factories
at teh back were their long drops
often beside their wells
Beer for everyone - healthier than water.
On display was a huge fossilized human faeces,
no wonder the guy here looks uncomfortable.

A viking making combs from antlers

Lunch at a very Victorian Carvery was followed by a ramble around the Shambles, the markets and the Minster.  The sun shone, Petal and Nana found lots of sweet stores, Willow looked at lots of sparkles, Charlie got some freshly baked doggy treats at at market stall and M nearly bought a devil face balaclava to scare would be trick or treaters.

Deciding which roast to have - Charlie is sleeping in the car

A watery sun shine on the carvery

A. Lolly shop

B. Lolly shop

C. Lolly shop

D. Lolly shop - So many more .....

The Shambles

Mid point of the Shambles nearly touching

Lots of Sparkles and Antiques - They say York is the most haunted city in the UK, a haunted house shop was for sale,
and competing boards advertising spooky walks after dark for Halloween created a bit of an obstacle course.

Outside York Minster - Michael had to wait a while for other photographers to stop taking our photo

Inside the Minster

Beautiful stonework above the front doors

The weather predicted for the weekend was dire and culminated in a wind storm that brought trains in the south of England to a halt and killed four people, including a fifteen year old girl asleep in her bed when a tree crashed through the ceiling of her bedroom. Going north saved us from the worst of the weather but our raincoats, hats and scarves were well used.  As it turned out the rain wasn't bad enough for the wellies (gumboots) I made everyone buy though.

Back at the motel the girls were disgusted to find that there was no wi-fi so we all had to watch a very slow quiz show called Pointless!

Reading Now:
I left my book at home - boo hoo.